Category: Blog

[fusion_builder_container hundred_percent=”yes” overflow=”visible”][fusion_builder_row][fusion_builder_column type=”1_1″ background_position=”left top” background_color=”” border_size=”” border_color=”” border_style=”solid” spacing=”yes” background_image=”” background_repeat=”no-repeat” padding=”” margin_top=”0px” margin_bottom=”0px” class=”” id=”” animation_type=”” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_direction=”left” hide_on_mobile=”no” center_content=”no” min_height=”none”][fusion_text]As another amazing summer was coming to an end, I found myself counting down the weeks before I go under the knife and after a 2 year wait, finally get my shoulder fixed.   Staring down 6 months of physiotherapy before I could once again be out on the rock again, I had to do one last mission as a send off into rehab.

Having never visited the birthplace of slacklining, highlining and big wall climbing, it seemed only fitting to travel to the iconic Yosemite Valley.   Spend one week climbing and highlining to find some inspiration to come back after my surgery, stronger than ever before.

The Drive

Friday, after a long week of work, Spencer, Adam, Bill and myself packed up Spencer’s van with everything we would need for a week in the valley. Taking shifts, we drove the 21 hours straight through the night and rolled into the Yosemite late afternoon on Saturday. As the highway turned a corner we got our first glimpse of the giant walls and we all let out screams of excited. None of us could contain ourselves. The walls were as big and amazing as I imagined.

Not wanting to waist any time, we decided to find somewhere to sleep when that time came, but for now we had 3 hours of sun light and were surrounded by walls.   It was time to chalk up and stretch out after the long drive.

As the sun was setting we all hit a brick wall, exhausted from the drive and climbing. We drove about 15 minutes outside the park boundary to find a nice pull out on the side of the highway. We sat around staring up at the amazing stars, eating pasta and making plans for the week. That night the stars were so bright and amazing I had to cover my eyes to get any sleep.

Camp 4

The next morning we went straight to Camp 4 to try our best to get one of the spots that we were sure would open up. After 20 minutes waiting in line, we managed to get the last site that would fit all 4 of us.   We spent the rest of the day getting setting up, exploring the valley, a little cragging and some slacklining around the camp.

While driving around the valley, we came across a park ranger who had telescopes setup to watch the climbers high on the walls. Sitting on the railing of the bridge was Alex Honnold.   Some tourist, watching the climbers turned to Alex and asked, “Have you ever climbed that”? We all laugh under our breath as Alex innocently replied “A few times”.   If only this unknowing tourist knew who he was talking to.

Once we got settled in, without wasting any time, we were sorting our the gear, food and paperwork we would need to tackle our first mission.

Mission 1 – Lost Arrow Spire

With everything we needed to climb the spire and rig the highline, plus water, food and supplies for two days, we hiked up the Upper Yosemite Falls trail. After a few long switch back hours, we were at the top staring down at the spire. So proud, so big, so high! Time to get to work.

Tying two ropes together, Adam and I rappelled the 240 feet, passing the knot, down to the notch between the wall and the spire.   Adam stepped out, around the corner and with nothing but air below his feet, pushed up the first pitch, past the first bolt ever placed for upward progression.

With only one more aid pitch to the top, we looked out into the valley and could see some ominous looking clouds rolling in.  Having not brought any rain gear on the spire, we decided to leave a fixed rope, rappel and come back first thing in the morning to finish the climb.

Fortunately the weather was friendly and we stayed dry. We spent the night under the stars and woke up to frozen sleeping bags and hot coffee.   As the sun started to warm things up, we descended back into the notch and up the first pitch. Adam, having only learned to aid climb 2 days before, started up the second pitch. After a few attempts we were unable to push through the blank section that had halted the original spire attempts for 2 years.

Feeling defeated, we started to pack up, but all of a sudden, and by Lucky Chance, things took a turn for the best.  Sitting there, packing our bags, ready to head down, when the amazingly fun Lucky Chance came strolling up. “Yeah I’ll give that a shot” he said as he prepared to rappel into the notch. An hour or so later, Lucky was standing on top the spire. The spirit of the group had done a 180. The line was rigged, sun was shining and people crushing.

Coming down well after sun down, we went straight for the closest place that served food and enjoyed copious amounts of expensive Pizza that was all to good.

Returning to the Spire two days later, we again enjoyed another amazing day in the sun. Spencer completed the full man free solo of the spire line like many of his inspirations before him.

Before taking down the line we had the whole crew cross the line and stand atop the spire. With the valley far below in the background, we celebrated a victory over the spire. Such an amazing place I will have to return to, this time with a healed shoulder so I can lead to the top!

Mission 2 – Taft Point

With only one week in the valley, there is no time to rest. As a rest day, we decided to head up to Taft Point. An easy 1mile hike to a ‘walk the line out’ highline with epic exposure. We spent the day playing around, exploring and relaxing in the sun.   Spencer, crushing like always, free soloed with the Nose and valley floor as a backdrop making for one of the best photos of the trip.

As the sun went down, the line glowed white under the flash of the camera making for some crazy shots. Hard surfing high above the black that is the nothingness of the exposer shows in the effort on Spencer’s face

We watched a wing suit jumper leap from the cliff edge and disappear behind the wall.   No more than 5 minutes later, 4 more parachutes deployed and floated down to the river at the base of the Nose. Just another Wednesday in Yosemite.

Mission 3 – The Rostrum

The Rostrum, home to some famous highlines and more famous climbs.   Only a short hike from the road, The Rostrum was said to be a great place to spend the day. Hiking in with all the needed gear for a few lines, we were shocked to find all the anchors stripped of hangers. Bummer! We had a few hangers, but not enough and they were back at the van.

We setup a Tyrolean off trees across to the Rostrum. We took turns zipping back and forth, laughing and enjoying the last day in the valley.

Heading Home

Yosemite Valley is an amazing place. Camp 4 is full of interesting people from all around the world. When we weren’t out highlining we spent our time talking to people, climbing around the camp and playing around on the few slacklines setup. Everyone is very friendly and the attitude relaxed. We enjoyed cold beer around a warm fire with good company every night. Unfortunately the trip had to come to end. I had a date with a surgeon and flight booked to take me there. Until next time Yosemite!

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Written by: Brent Plumley
Special thank you to Bill Hawley for all the amazing photos

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My name is Spencer Seabrooke, and I have been slacklining since May 2012.   This is the story of my journey to walking freesolo.

After watching “Sketchy Andy” video on the Reel Rock tour, without having ever even walked a slackline I dreamed of walking a highline.  As soon as I had the money, I went to the local climbing shop and picked up a gibbon classic.  I emediately started slacking.  The weather is sometimes an issue in the spring in Vancouver so we would setup the line in parking garages or under any other covered area with two solid anchors.

As soon as was able to walk the line I had already set my eye on my first highline – The Camel.  I was obsessed. With my climbing experience and some research on safe rigging, I hiked up to the location twice, both times with plans to drill and prepare for the highline, but the weather and mountain conditions made it unsafe.

After 3 months of slacklining, having walked the slackline high in the trees, we set out one weekend to rig my first true highline.  The weather did not go as planned, but with a clear break on sunday, we managed to drill and bolt the new line.  After a few shaky steps, I was able to do the first FA of the Camel.  My first highline.

Walking the highline sparked something in me.  The feeling euphoria I got form walking in the clouds.  I was hocked.  On the hike down, we started talking and thinking about locations that we could highline.

We started setting up new lines over the canyons on the north shores where for many days I trained with the exposure and thoughts of going bigger, higher and longer.

Having walked my longest highline at 50′, 90′ in the air, I decided I was ready to try the 100′, 900′ high line across the north gully of the chief.

In Dec 2012, I went out and bough a 60m piece of climbing spec tubular webbing the day before we found ourselves rigging a 100′ primitive setup.  We knew it was a little bit sktechy, but still completely safe using bomber climbing rope back up. I knew I was safe.  Doing this like this has truely helped me feel comfortable with my rigging and learning to trust our rigging and the systems which we have in place. Its the key to getting beyond what you are doing and just focus on walking the line.

Taking countless whippers, almost decking out, loosing my shoes to the gully and only making it 20 feet, I felt defeated.  I knew I had to start training on longer lines on the ground before I could just rig one and start walking high in the air.  The next day in the pouring rain I rigged a line approximately the same length between two trees and walked it back and forth.  I couldn’t understand what held me back the day before.

At this point I needed gear.  Gathering all the money I had, I started my slack rack, with the climbing pulleys I already had, and some static rope,  I managed to tension up to a 200′ line.  After walking 200′ I knew I was ready to go back to the North Gully and get a real taste of exposure.

Bags packed with some friends to help rig in January 2013, I returned to the North Gully.  Shoveled 4′ of snow to find the anchors, we managed to get the line setup on some much improved rigging – no more primitive setup.  Still backed up with a climbing rope, I crossed the line tapeing it and I knew I was ready but the line was still very lose.  Giving the line a few more pulls – BAM.  The 1″ tubular webbing snapped. I was choked.  The wind had caused the line to rub on the snow and wear a weak point where it eventually snapped

The next weekend with my new weblock and new flat nylon webbing I picked up from a local rescue store. I hiked up with the one friend who was available.  After a long battle, I was able to send the line half man.  The thought of walking something like this freesolo was so far out of my mind.  Even the thought of walking with a lease was still crazy

Over the winter, the slack rack continued to grow with the addition of some Slackline Brothers pulleys and a ton of steel.

In march 2013, we started setting up new highlines at Cypress Falls canyon in West Vancouver.  I began to experiment with swami, shackles and ball and chain.  I felt I started to understand the thought of walking freesolo.  After walking back and forth on a the “Back Seat Driver” (70′ long, 60′ high) with swami belt, I dropped the harness and stepped on to my first freesolo of a 50′, 45′ high “Fourst Timer”.  It felt so good, and I knew I could take it a lot further.

Continuing to rig new lines I started to feel more comfortable on the line.  Having walked and attempted many highlines, some outside my ability, I never once took leash falls.  Being able to walk the line with less and less protection, it is as much about being confident in knowing you will catch as it is important to know you walk the line.

After soloing a few of the lines I had rigged in the canyons in the May 2013, I decided I needed to solo something that was truly exposed.  I set the goal of returning to my first highline “The Camel”, with 1000′ exposure.  Walking several times with harness then swami, dropped the harness and walked it freesolo full man (video).  At that point I truly felt in control of my fears and emotions.

Arrival of the Swiss crew, with some new longer pieces of webbing, I returned to the North Gully and without any trouble, walked the line back and forth.  The thought of soloing the North gully started be a thought in my mind.

At this point my friend Brent Plumely and I started a group SlackLifeBC. Through our social media, we were able to get out 7 highliners and rigged 2 100′ lines across the North Gully.  Walking both lines back and forth for a whole day, experimenting with swami and thoughts of soloing – Still scared the shit out of me.

Waknig up Sunday morning, I felt bored of walking back and forth tied in safely.  I knew I was walking these lines solid enough to solo them I just needed to get past my fears.   I tied in with on shackles and truly felt free on the line.  I knew I was ready, I have never felt more in the zone.  I stepped over to the highline and waited for Joseph to step off.  The anticipation killed me.  The energy I was getting from the people around me was amazing, they knew what I was about to do.  The line was free, I tied the leash back, I stepped on freesolo.

The first 10′ there is a small ledge underneath  and feel relatively secure.  The second I felt the exposure, and dropped to my butt.  I slid back to the begging of the line and let a scream – my built up nerves, and stepped back on the line.  I was completely in the zone and every step felt solid.  This is where all my training and mental preparation had led me to.  I cruised accossed the line, and exploded on the other side.  It took weeks for the high of walking the line to go down.  To truly overcome your fears and being in complete control is the most amazing feeling someone could feel (video).

After the North Fully Solo, I returned to all the lines less than 100′ that I had previously rigged and soloed them.  Setting up long lines and constantly training I had to return to the North Gully for the freesolo of “Dean’s Line”.  It is relatively the same as the line I had soloed previously, but its much more exposed and you walk onto a spire.  I was always inspired to freesolo this line because it was Dean’s video that got me started looking at the north gully in the first place.

I went up, walked the line many times with swami and shackles not taking a fall all day.  Having just finished walking the line full man with shakles, I knew I was ready to solo the line.  There was a slight hesitation on my mind so I stood on the end of the line still above the ledge and thought about the solo.  After taking two steps forward, I felt a slight shake and felt it was not the right moment and jumped off safely to the ledge still below.  After a few grunts and shaking out my nerves, I emediately stepped back on the line.  I felt solid step after step until sundenly I found myself in the middle 900′ in the air with my legs shaking.  After one sketchy step, and seeing the line shake in front of me I knew I had to catch and grab the line.  Still in control I dropped and caught the line.  On the way back the ledge I was thinking about how much easier it would have been to walk to the other side than shimmy back and start again.  Having fallen and caught in the middle free solo, I had faced my biggest fear.  Now it was all about walking to the other side.  I stepped back on the line and felt like I was only a few feet off the ground walking in the park.  I no longer felt the exposure.

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