Author: SlacklifeBC

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It’s never too cold or snowy for first ascents.   Having snowed a meter in the past week and another 15cm in the weekend forecast, why not head up the Squamish Chief to rig two new highlines on the never before rigged North-North gully?

Hiking up Friday afternoon, Spencer managed to shovel the snow using the stay from his pack, rig and set up a new line across a very exposed notch on the one side of the gully.  Investigating the location for the longer 64m line, the decision was made it would be too difficult given the weather conditions.

Saturday morning, a bigger group of us hiked up the backside trail through the snow and ice to find a beautiful line covered in overnight snow.  We quickly set up a shelter, a small fire and started brewing some tea.   The small breaks in the snow throughout the day were welcome breaks, but for most of the day, the snow was falling, or in some cases rising from the gully.

To prove the weather is no match for Spencer, he stripped down to only his socks and put up the first naked ascent freezing “Deez Nuts” off.

Throughout the day, snowy and cold, the line saw several attempts and ascents in everything from full snow gear and boots, barefeet and even nothing at all.  “Deez Nuts”, one more line ready to be rigged at this year’s 2nd annual Assault on the Chief.

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On a cold, sunny weekend, we setup a new highline across the South Gully of the Squamish Chief. This gap, to our knowledge has never been highlined before.

Despite the relentless wind, Spencer Seabrooke put up an on-sight FA of “Waist Line” at the top of the Squamish Buttress above the Butt Crack and Buttface climbing routes

We started the weekend leaving early Saturday morning to avoid the Whistler traffic.  Packed for the weekend, we made our way up the Sea to Sky highway.   Our plans took an  unexpected turn when just before Britannia mining museum, a small SUV behind us lost control and was hit by an on coming pickup truck.   Having first aid training and some limited first aid supplies in my pack, we quickly turned around to see how or if we could help.  It was not a good scene.  After some time the paramedics arrived and we decided to leave as we were no longer of assistance, and the scene was not one I wanted to hang around.   People always say that we are crazy for rock climbing and highlining, but in reality, the most dangerous part of entire weekend was likely the drive to and from Vancouver.  When you see how much power and how fast an accident can happen, combined with how many factors play into driving, rock climbing and highlining seems so safe and controlled.

Trying to put the events of the morning behind us, we hiked up the back side trail towards peak 2.  After taking some time to scope the south gully and relax, we found a good location with some amazing photo opportunities.

While setting up and taping the line, the wind was howling.  Hoping for a short break in the weather, we sat and had some food.  Being the typical Spencer, he couldn’t wait any more.  He was insistent the wind was teasing him knew and would go calm when he sat down, and blow hard when walking up to the line.  Despite the gusting wind, Spencer battled across the line for an on sight FA of “Waist Line”.

Calling it an early day, we decided to hike down and head into Squamish for some nice food.  The typical Howe Sound Brew Pub is a favorite with excellent food and beer.  Running into a local highliner, we told him about the south gully line we had rigged and he said he would join us on Sunday

Sunday morning, we were once again heading up the chief at first light.  The weather was not much warmer, and the wind once again would not let up.  The few calm periods always seem to happen when we were eating lunch or out exploring.  A few other people joined us and made attempts at the highline.

Now with established highlines on both the north and south gully of the Chief, an only a short walk across peak 2 to get from one gap to the other, we hope to have several lines rigged over the gullies in this years Assault on the Chief, 2nd annual highline festival.

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